How-To: Alter a Waist-band

I think I have mentioned that I have large hips before. It’s not that my hips are ‘large’ they are just disproportionate. I’m going to do a brave thing here… and tell you guys my measurements. I’m roughly 35.5in – 27in – 40.5in, that is my bust, waist, and hip measurements. I know them because I sew. It’s also a very useful set of information to have on hand when ordering clothes online. Now according to most clothing manufacturers a woman’s hips should be roughly 10 inches larger than her waist. Mine measure in at roughly 13-14 inches difference, meaning my hips are generally at least one size larger than expected. Here’s a chart example from one of everyone’s favorite online retailers Modcloth with my measurements circled.

Measurement chart

Image is courtesy of Modcloth (I did the circling)

This really just means sometimes I have to alter clothing that I buy. So I thrifted these green jeans the other day that fit me well across the hips but the waist band was a little out of control.

Waist band BeforeSad face notes the several inches that this waist needs to be taken in.

So I pulled out my seam ripper and went to work. I pulled apart the waist band in the back and down the first several inches of the back seam. The next part I did partially incorrectly because I just pulled the fabric so that it overlapped instead of trimming, so my back center seam did not remain straight. When this alteration turned out not to be enough, I added two darts on on either side of the back center seam pulling it in another inch or so on each side.

Then I trimmed the waist band and reattached it. The funky little fold you see is the REAL center of the jeans so you can see how the back seam has been moved over. Then I reattached the belt loop to try to really hide the off center seam.

I’ll be honest, this isn’t the ‘proper’ way to alter a pair of pants. Moving the center seam throws the fabric grain off in the back (which can make clothing lay funny), the two darts modify the fabric even further and do add a little pucker on each side. But overall a well spent half hour to fix these $3 pair of pants. Here is the after photo.

Sorry the photo is a little blurry indoor shot are hard, there aren’t many windows in my apartment. I wore them out of Sat and they look pretty awesome. There’s a real outfit post tomorrow (for the Everybody Everywhere link-up). Though they still need to be hemmed (I’m a shorty with big hips) I wore them while curly-haired boy and I started thrifting for our Halloween costumes (we start on costumes really early) and then to a move in party at our friends house.

  • http://shybiker.blogspot.com Shybiker

    All of our bodies are different. Yours is much closer to the median than mine: I’m a block cylinder with hips the same size as my waist. As hard as it is for you to deal with standard sizing, my plight is even worse.

    The tailoring tip is useful. I just have to go in the reverse direction.

    • http://hal.cyondays.com Loren

      The best thing to remember is that it is easier to grade down. So buy pants to fit your waist and then grade down for your hips. Skirts generally much easier to alter so I’d suggest starting there.

  • http://www.thejoyoffashion.blogspot.com Marie McGrath

    My measurements are very similar to yours, so don’t you worry about a thing! You did a great job altering those pants btw!

    http://www.thejoyoffashion.blogspot.com

  • http://mythriftycloset.blogspot.com mongs

    great work. I have yet to learn how to alter pants. Thanks for sharing!

    love,mongs
    mythriftycloset.blogspot.com

  • http://29skirts.blogspot.com Heather

    Wow, good to know! I have about a 12-inch difference between my waist and hip measurements, and it’s VERY hard for me to find pants and jeans that fit well. I own no pants, and the few jeans I have are of the stretchy, tight variety which helps with the fit. But I really would like a nice pair of high-waisted, flared jeans that just fit nicely without being tight. Maybe I can find some in a thrift store and alter them like this.

    • http://hal.cyondays.com Loren

      Different brands definitely have different ‘standard sizes’. I’ve got several pairs of Gap jeans that fit me like a glove, but nothing in Old Navy will fit me correctly. So you can probably find something from another manufacturer that is a little closer to your measurements than these were, the example here is a little extreme I don’t think I’ve ever run across such a massive gap before. But they were only $3 so I just didn’t have the heart to leave them behind.
      I don’t know why women’s pants can’t just list a hip & waist measurement on them instead of arbitrary vanity sizes.

  • http://www.madelinequaint.blogspot.com Madeline Quaint

    I have a full size difference between my “top” and my “bottom” too, which makes buying trousers difficult… Your solution is great! Maybe I should learn how to sew. :)

  • http://www.minnchic.com Rebecca

    The jeans turned out really cute!

  • http://tinfoilstiaras.blogspot.com Tinfoil Tiaras

    You are a sewing genius- I can’t sew for beans so I would have left those gorgeous green pants behind but good thing you didn’t because now they fit like a glove! You know what? I have no idea what my measurements are- I feel like it would be a handy thing to know!

    • http://hal.cyondays.com Loren

      It makes ordering online SO much easier when you know them. I’m not familiar with my in-seam or anything complicated like that, I mostly just guess and check when I sew, I screw stuff up all the time.

  • http://feathersfreckles.blogspot.com Megan

    Ok, first of all, I have never noticed that your hips are “large” or “disproportionate”. I think you’ve got a rockin’ curvy body!

    Secondly, those jeans are AMAZING. LOVE LOVE the color, and it’s so awesome that you were able to take them in to suit your body. I just got into sewing but I’m scared to alter clothes because I think I will end up sewing a third leg on or accidentally removing the zipper or something silly.

    And last but not least – I am kind of obsessed with halloween and already know what Kevin and I will be wearing. The thrift hunt begins!

    • http://hal.cyondays.com Loren

      I always sound really negative when I use the word ‘disproportionate’ but I really do love my curves, hips and ‘bubble butt’. I think they look very nice! ;)
      BUT when you are trying to buy clothes and can’t seem to find ANYTHING that fits it can get really discouraging. Learning what is different about my body from the industry standard helps me sort out why things don’t fit the way I think they should and fix the problem. I also know what to really look for when I walk into a dressing room now, and learning to tailor things can really open up a huge range of clothing I never would have looked at before.

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